Santarém, Pearl of the Tapajós River

Tapajós River

Father's Day on the Tapajós River, right in front of Santarém.

Fork-tailed flycatcher

Belo Alter Hotel in Alter do Chão

Belo Alter Hotel in Alter do Chão, one of the finer places in the Amazon to relax and enjoy life.

Canoes on the Tapajós River

Woodsmen

It's not often that we need six woodsmen at Bosque Santa Lucia, but when the British ship Artemis comes to the Amazon, we work at our limits. This past Wednesday, we conducted tours for six groups in the morning and three in the afternoon. Each group is led by one English speaking guide and a local woodsman. We expect the same number on March 11th, when the ship comes back down the river from Manaus. In the attached image from left to right: Bimba, Cleuson, Waldemar, Carlos, Kleper and Luiz.

Calabash gourd tree

We were in Alter do Chão last Sunday. I spotted this beautiful calabash gourd tree in the front yard of a small bar, only meters away from from where the Tapajós River and Lago Verde meet. Look at the fruit on that small tree. And there were a few others I didn't include in the photograph!

New visuals at Bosque

When the electric company put in the power lines, most of the trees bordering the dirt road got cut in the 15 meter swath. In recent months I had the tatajuba logs (Bagassa guianensis) cut into sections to serve as benches around a pau Brasil tree (Caesalpinia echinata), as well as a pau rosa tree (Aniba anelillia rosaeodora). In the image, we're looking at the young pau Brasil tree. Some sidewalks have been built on one side of the reception center.

Neutral person

I ran into this naked character in the forest a few weeks ago. I think that she/he/it was showing off a beautiful suntan.

Pacific Princess, continued

Our visitors arriving from the ship. English speaking guides, Mr. Alex (facing the passengers) and Mr. Amilson (in yellow shirt) divide the group in half for the walking tour. It was a good day for everyone.

Tours to Bosque canceled

The ground-operator for the Royal Princess and the Pacific Princess has canceled all tours to Bosque Santa Lúcia until such time safe access can be assured to passengers signing up for the ecological tour. I knew it was coming. Over the last few months I've had to cancel most of my own private tours to the Bosque because of road conditions. I tried everything to get the mayor's office to respond to the need for road maintenance, but to no avail. I still find it unbelievable that I wasn't successful in at least getting past that mud hole I refer to as Lake Maria. I talked with the secretary of tourism. Nada! I talked with his superior. Nada. I talked with a lot of other people too, including the secretary of planning for the municipality, who is "the man". He promised me that he would open up the road, but .... nada. I even wrote a nasty article in one of the major news pieces of Santarém. Nada! Our Bosque Santa Lúcia is on the edge of the city. Imagine what it's like out in the boonies. I'll be keeping everyone updated via this blog. I hope to see some of you there. Smile.

Lake Maria filled, continued

It's ironical that the first vehicle I saw to pass over the road construction was a logging truck. This kind of traffic is one reason the road becomes impassable. They are super heavy and some of them are the double trailer types. I can't make accusations, but everyone knows that most of this traffic is clandestine. The road connects BR-163 (Santarém-Cuiabá Highway) and the Curuá-Una Highway, a distance of only 8 kilometers. It's a way of avoiding the Federal Highway Police Station, which is located on the army base (8th BEC). Every now and then the Federal Police conducts monitoring of this situation and the traffic come to a fast halt, for awhile. Then it starts up again, especially in the darkness of night.

Antioch College

The riverboat, Benjamin, backs away from the dock in front of the city with students from Antioch College and our own IESPES university here in Santarem. All students of the environment, they were heading out for a day on the river system with Gil Serique. It seemed to have been a great day for everyone.

Tapajós, continued

These palm fronds full of bees were right next to a beehive. I think they forgot to make reservations!

Tapajós, continued

To make a long story short of how we got my car out of the sandbanks and on to Friar Leão's birthday party, my friend Alipio announced that "I'm gonna get help" and off he went by foot into the desert sun at 11:00 AM. To be honest about it, I was a bit worried about him because he's a bit overweight and he left already red as a beet from all the physical activities of trying to get the car up the hill. His wife, who was taking care of their 3 young kids, including one a baby, assured me that he didn't have a heart problem. About an hour later, he showed up in the Friar's bright red pickup with three helpers. Let me tell you, it's not by chance that Friar Leão owns this kind of vehicle. He drives these Tapajós River roads every day. I think that this 4-wheel drive diesel truck is capable of performing somersaults, if necessary. In no time the team pulled my car out of the sand, changed the flat tire and off we went to a dreamland of many friends, cold beer and barbecue. Later Alipio told me that he didn't walk out, he actually ran. I believe him!

Mato Grosso soy, update

Another image of the Mato Grosso soy/rice mill located in Cipoal on the BR-163 Highway. Per earlier posts, it's my understanding that Cargill has leased this facility because their large sills in Santarém are full to the brim.

Mato Grosso soy, update

This image, plus the next two, were taken this morning as I headed down BR-163 to visit friends near Cipoal. We counted approximately 20 trucks waiting outside to get into the Mato Grosso Mill for unloading soybeans.

Past history, continued

As the last of the invited guests show up for the riverboat trip, I spotted a flower of a flamboyant tree flashing its color within a tangle of of other trees and plants. It was low enough that I was able to get this photograph without the use of a zoom. As Áurea and I boarded the riverboat, I thought to myself that I would like to return to this site to see the rest of what remains of a place I knew more than 20 years ago. The owner has gotten old. I've gotten older and the homestead has seen better days. Nature finds itself everywhere and brings new life for all.

Tropical Savanna, continued

Yes, anacondas still exist in the waters of the Tapajós and Amazon Rivers. Does the cobra grande exist? Well, I suspect that there are still some big ones around, but the most beautiful one I've ever seen was at the Escola Floresta, the environmental education center to which I've referred. It's 5-6 meters long, carved from one piece of jacarandá of Pará wood (Dalbergia spruceana). I found the head of the creature to be exquisitely done, as seen in the image.

Tropical Savanna, continued

One of the thatched buildings at Escola Floresta has this spectacular view of Lago Verde, alias Green Lake. Off in the distance you can see Serra Alter do Chão, better known as Serra Piroca, which has a vulgar connotation, if you come from other parts of Brazil. The Tapajós River is just off to the left of the hill and the village of Alter do Chão is on other side of the landmass to the left of the image. This is definitely God's country.